Carson City: Nevada’s Historic Capital City
Carson City prides itself on preserving and celebrating its past—a big
reason why the editors of True West magazine recently named it the “Best
Western Historical Site.” A visit to Carson City is an opportunity to catch
a glimpse of Nevada’s rich and colorful history. The city’s origins
are closely linked to the creation of the state of Nevada. In 1861, when the
Nevada Territory was established, Carson City was named the capital of the territorial
government. Three years later, when statehood was bestowed, Carson City was designated
the official state capital.
Carson City’s first residents, however, were
ranchers, not politicians. In 1851, a trading post was established in Eagle Valley,
in which Carson City is located, to provide goods and services to travelers heading
to California. A few years later, Abraham Curry, B.F. Green, J.J. Musser, and
Frank Proctor purchased the trading post and most of the surrounding area. The
four laid out a town site, which Frank Proctor named after the Carson River,
which flows through the area. In 1844, explorer John C. Fremont had named the
river in honor of his scout, Kit Carson.
Early Carson City was a classic frontier
town. Writer Mark Twain, who arrived in the community in August 1861 on a stagecoach,
wrote, “visibly our new
home was a desert, walled in by barren, snow-clad mountains. There was not a
tree in sight. There was no vegetation but the endless sagebrush and greasewood.
All nature was gray with it.
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Early Carson City
photo courtesy Nevada
Historical Society |
“By and by Carson City was pointed out to us
. . . it was a “wooden” town;
its population two thousand souls. The main street consisted of four or five
blocks of little white frame stores . . . They were packed close together, side
by side, as if room were scarce in that mighty plain. The sidewalk was of boards
that were more or less loose and inclined to rattle when walked upon. In the
middle of the town was the “plaza” which is native to all towns beyond
the Rocky Mountains—a large, unfenced, level vacancy, with a liberty pole
in it, and very useful as a place for public auctions, horse trades, and mass
meetings, and likewise for teamsters to camp in.”
Curry eventually bought
out his partners and became an energetic promoter of his community, which prospered
as a supply point for miners working in nearby Virginia City. In addition to
selling lots and developing a number of businesses, Curry set aside 10-acres
of land in the middle of his settlement, which he donated for a state capitol, which was completed in 1871.
The gift proved to be worth its weight
in silver as Carson City became the state capitol and the center of Nevada state
government. As a result dozens of government buildings, many built in the 19th
century, have been erected in the city, and state government remains one of the
community’s largest employers.
In the early 20th century, Carson City was the quintessential small American
town. In “Basque Hotel,” writer Robert Laxalt, who grew up in the
capitol city in the 1930s, recalled, “The capitol dome was not much of
a dome, but then Carson City was after all the smallest capital in the United
States. This was drummed into the children of Carson from day one by townspeople
and schoolteachers and the Carson City Daily Appeal. The children accepted the
boast and repeated it to each other as dutifully as if it were one of the Commandments.”
Today,
the best way to explore Carson City’s historic sites is with a stroll
or drive on the Kit Carson Trail. The 2.5-mile tour, which is marked with a bright
blue line, passes more than 60 of the community’s most historic buildings
and homes, many constructed in the 1860s and 1870s.
Carson City’s Historic District
Among the many historic structures found along Carson City’s Kit Carson
Trail are:
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State Capitol in 1871
photo courtesy Nevada
Historical Society |
State Capitol— Constructed in 1870-71, Nevada’s state
capitol is built of native sandstone and combines elements of classic Corinthian,
Ionic and Doric architecture. The result is a building that, as the State Register
noted in 1870, "any State in the union might be proud to call its own."
The capitol building is nearly 300 feet in length and 120-feet high from the
ground to the top of the octagonal, silver-painted cupola. Inside, visitors find
the offices of the Governor and other constitutional officers as well as a portrait
gallery containing paintings of every Nevada governor. Near the center of the
building is a life size bronze statue of Nevada Native American activist and
teacher, Sarah Winnemucca. An identical statue of the noted Paiute leader can
be found at the Hall of Statues in the U.S. Capitol in Washington D.C.
The second floor of the capitol contains displays in the historic legislative
chambers that describe the construction of the building, early Governors, and
the history of the state. At the rear of the main building is a three-story octagonal
annex, also built of native sandstone that was constructed in 1906 to serve as
the state library. The library outgrew the space in 1936 and since then the annex
has housed several state agencies, including the State Controller's office, the
present occupant.
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Carson Brewing Company
photo courtesy Nevada
Historical Society |
Brewery Arts Center—Constructed in 1865, this imposing
two-story, brick structure was the home of the Carson Brewery (later called the
Carson Brewing Company). From the 1860s to the 1940s, under several different
owners, the brewery produced a variety of beers, lagers, and other products,
most notably, Tahoe Beer, which had the slogan, “Famous as the Lake.”
In 1950, the structure was sold to Donald W. Reynolds, owner of Donrey Media
Group, for use as the printing plant for the Nevada Appeal and Carson Chronicle
newspapers. In 1974, Donrey Media moved the newspaper operations to a larger
location and, through the efforts of the Carson City Centennial-Bicentennial
Commission, the building was converted into a community arts center. Today, the
Brewery Arts Center annually hosts dozens of musical and theater productions,
art shows, and other artistic endeavors.
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the Old Federal Building
photo courtesy Nevada
Historical Society |
Paul Laxalt State Office Building (Old Federal Building)—Named
for former Nevada Governor and U.S. Senator Paul Laxalt, this four-story, red
brick structure at 401 N. Carson St. was erected in 1890-91. The distinctive
Victorian building originally housed the post office, federal courts, U.S. Weather
Bureau, and other federal agencies. Prominent 19th century government architect,
Mifflin E. Bell, was responsible for its design. As with many of his structures,
Bell incorporated a clock tower into the building.
The last court case was heard in the building in 1965, after which the federal
court was moved to Reno. The post office moved to new quarters in Carson City
in 1970. The Nevada State Library moved into the building and remained there
until the early 1990s, when it was extensively restored and became the offices
of the Nevada Commission on Tourism and Nevada Magazine.
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Governor's Mansion, Fall 1968
photo courtesy Nevada
Historical Society |
Governor’s Mansion—Nevada didn’t have a home
for its governors during the first four decades of statehood. Some historians
say that the reason for the lack of an official home for the state’s governors
was that many early legislators thought that providing an official residence
at taxpayers’ expense
was an aristocratic luxury.
As a result, the state's first eleven governors either built their own homes
in Carson City or rented quarters. Today, you can still find a handful of those
early, privately built Governors' homes in Carson City's historic district.
In 1907, however, the legislature appropriated $40,000 for building and furnishing
a mansion for the state's chief executives. Planning and construction took about
two years and the mansion, built in a Southern Colonial style, was completed
in July 1909, with Acting Governor Denver S. Dickerson and his family serving
as the first residents. On September 2 of that year, Dickerson's wife, Una, in
fact, gave birth to a daughter, June, the only child ever born in the mansion.
The two-story mansion at 600 N. Mountain Street incorporates four classic white
columns at the entrance and a beautiful, curved second-floor porch. The home
has been renovated several times including a partial refurbishing in 1959, a
more substantial remodeling in 1967, and a $5 million reconstruction in 1999-2000,
which was funded by private donations.
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Bliss Mansion
photo courtesy Nevada
Historical Society |
Bliss Mansion—Located at 710 W. Robinson
Street, this impressive, two-story structure was built in 1879 by Lake Tahoe
lumber and railroad magnate Duane L. Bliss. Bliss made his fortune with the Lake
Tahoe Narrow Gauge Railroad that carried timber from Lake Tahoe to Virginia City's
mines.
Niles-Sadler House—This
home, at 310 N. Mountain Street, was built in 1878 by Edward Niles, paymaster
and general ticket agent for the V & T
Railroad. The home was purchased in 1896 by Governor Reinhold Sadler and was
considered the unofficial Governor's Mansion during his term.
Brougher-Bath House—Located
at 204 W. Spear Street, this impressive home was built in 1903-04 by Wilson Brougher,
a state senator who made his fortune during Tonopah's silver strike at the turn
of the century. Brougher moved to Carson City after he purchased the Arlington
Hotel on Carson Street. He built this home adjacent to the hotel—now long
gone—and incorporated a
number of unique design features including a two-story circular porch, stained
glass windows and a wonderful circular tower that gives the structure the appearance
of a castle. Ernest Bath, the city’s postmaster, purchased the house in
1937 and lived there with his family for more than 40 years. It has recently
been restored and is currently used for meetings and special events.
Bender-Pozzi
House—This majestic mansion at 707 W. Robinson was
built in 1866 by lawyer George Nourse. A few years later, it was purchased by
David Bender, a passenger and freight agent for the V & T Railroad.
In 1901, the home was acquired by Archie Pozzi Sr., an Ormsby County commissioner,
and remained in his family until 1980. The two-story house is notable for its
broad curved porch that overlooks a large, manicured lawn lined with beautiful
trees.
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the Warm Springs Hotel
photo courtesy Nevada
Historical Society |
the Warm Springs Hotel—The first Territorial Legistlature met on October 1, 1861 at Abe Curry's Warm Springs Hotel in Carson City.
The Orion Clemens House—Located at 502 N. Division,
this home was built in 1863 by the older brother of Samuel Clemens, better known
by his pen name, Mark Twain. The latter is believed to have occasionally stayed
in the house in 1863 and 1864. The two-story stucco building was originally built
with wood siding. Orion Clemens served as secretary to Territorial Governor William
Nye.
The Krebs-Peterson House—This classic Victorian, located
at 500 N. Mountain, was built in 1914 by a prominent surgeon and featured in
the movie, The Shootist, actor John Wayne’s last movie.
The Sears-Ferris
House—Located at 311 W. Third, this was the boyhood
home of George Washington Gale Ferris Jr., who later invented the Ferris Wheel
for the Chicago World Columbian Exposition of 1893. From 1868 to 1890, the house
was owned by agriculturalist George Washington Gale Ferris Sr., who was noteworthy
in Carson City's development because he imported a large number of the trees
from the east that were planted throughout the city. Gregory A. Sears, a pioneer
Carson City businessman, originally built the house in about 1863.
Lone Mountain Cemetery—Spread over about 40 acres,
Lone Mountain Cemetery consists of seven separate cemeteries including sections
for Masons, Oddfellows, Catholics, and children. Among those buried in the cemetery
are noted stagecoach driver Hank Monk (made famous in Mark Twain's book, "Roughing
It"), Carson City founder Abe Curry; Jennie Clemens (niece of writer Mark
Twain and daughter of Orion Clemens, who died in 1864 of spotted fever at the
age of nine); and five governors, including, John Henry Kinkead (3rd Governor);
Roswell K. Colcord (7th Governor); John Edward Jones (8th Governor); Reinhold
Sadler (9th Governor); and Denver S. Dickerson (11th Governor).
Stewart Indian
School—Located on Snyder Avenue at the south end
of Carson City is the former campus of the Stewart Indian School. This complex
encompasses several dozen buildings, many of which were built with walls of rough-cut,
multi-colored native stones imbedded in dark mortar.
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the Stewart Indian School
photo courtesy Nevada
Historical Society |
According to historical reports, the "Stewart Indian School" architecture
was a style borrowed in the early 1920s by then-superintendent Frederick Snyder,
who had admired a church of similar design in Arizona. The first building of
this design (the former Administrative Building) was completed in 1923. Eventually
more than 100 buildings utilizing the stone architecture were constructed on
the school grounds, most built by stone masons trained at the school.
The Stewart
Indian School story began in the 1880s when Nevada's Superintendent of Public
Instruction, C.S. Young, recommended to the U.S. Bureau of Indian Affairs and
the Nevada State Legislature that an Indian industrial school be established
because most of the state's Native Americans were not being formally educated.
The Nevada State Legislature passed legislation in 1887 that established an Indian
school and authorized the issuing of bonds for the facility, provided the federal
government agreed to operate the school.
Nevada's U.S. Senator William Stewart
guided the appropriate federal legislation to approval, including congressional
funding, and the Clear Creek Indian Training School, as it was originally known,
was built by the Bureau of Indian Affairs on 240 acres.
Later, the school was
named for Senator Stewart (it was called a number of names over the years, including
the Carson Indian School, the Stewart Institute and, finally, the Stewart Indian
School) and officially opened on December 17, 1890. The school was operated much like a military school in its first decades. Historic
photos show that students wore military-style uniforms. Academic classes consumed
about half of each day, followed by vocational training in such skills as sewing,
shoe and harnessmaking, blacksmithing, carpentry, printing and other work.
Beginning
in the 1890s, the Stewart athletic teams played a variety of sports, including
football, track, basketball, boxing and baseball. While relatively small in size,
the school won several state championships.
In addition to educating Nevada's
Native Americans (who were actually a minority of those who ever attended the
school), the Stewart facility housed Native Americans from throughout the country.
In fact, in the late 1940s, the school became part of a special program for Navajos
and by the mid-1950s, most of the students were of Navajo descent.
The school
was finally closed in 1980, after the federal government decided to phase out
Indian boarding schools. The land was sold to the state of Nevada, which converted
many of the structures into state offices.
Carson City’s Museums
For a community its size, Carson City boasts a relatively large number of
museums and historic exhibits, including:
The Nevada State Museum— Built
in 1866 of native sandstone quarried by inmate crews at the Nevada State Prison,
the structure that now houses the Nevada State Museum originally served as a
U.S. Mint. From 1870 to 1893, the Mint produced more than $50 million in coins,
most minted from Comstock silver.
Today, the museum contains displays describing Nevada’s rich past and fascinating
natural history. For example, the museum’s natural history section spotlights
many of the plants and animals indigenous to Nevada. Species on display range
from the rare cui-ui fish to the mountain bluebird (the state bird).
The museum’s Native American section is highlighted by a large collection
of handmade baskets crafted by Dat-So-La-Lee, the famed Washoe basket maker renowned
for her meticulous handiwork.
In other parts of the museum, visitors will find a large display of minerals,
ranging from unique opals and gems to various crystal and quartz stones, as well
as the reconstructed skeleton of one of the largest mammoths ever found in North
America. The massive beast, which lived 17,000 years ago, stands 13-feet high
at the shoulder and is posed in a simulated mud bog next to the bones of a 25,000-year-old
horse.
One of the most popular sections of the museum is its life-style replica of a
typical Nevada ghost town. The mock mining camp contains all of the standard
ghost town buildings—the newspaper office, the assay office, the general
store and, of course, the saloon—constructed from weathered and worn wood.
An automated old prospector and his mule serve as your guide in describing each
building and the lifecycle of a 19th century Nevada mining camp.
From the ghost town, you can take another interesting journey into the past at
the museum's reconstruction of a 19th century mine, located in the museum’s
basement. Along the way, you can find out about the importance of Deidesheimer
square-set mine timbering and why mining was such a dangerous profession a century
ago.
The museum’s gift shop is a warehouse of Nevada-related souvenirs, books
and other items. Wandering around the shop, you can find anything from gold panning
kits to Nevada flags.
The Nevada State Museum is located at 600 North Carson Street, between Robinson
and Caroline streets. Admission is $5 for adults, $3 for seniors and no charge
for those under 17. The museum is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. For
more information call 775-687-4810.
The Nevada State Railroad Museum—Devoted
to the history of Nevada’s
railroads, the state museum’s primary focus is on the historic Virginia & Truckee
(V & T) Railroad. The bulk of the museum’s collection of more than
60 locomotives and cars were once part of the V & T Railroad. In the 1970s,
the state of Nevada purchased the pieces from Paramount Studios, which had used
them in many motion pictures and television programs. The movie company acquired
the rolling stock in 1937, when the V & T was experiencing financial difficulties.
Today, visitors can view meticulously restored rail equipment that helps to tell
the state’s rich railroad history. Inside the main museum building is the
Inyo, a wood-burning Baldwin locomotive that was built in 1875, as well as V & T
Caboose No. 9, built in 1873; Coach No. 4, the oldest piece of V & T equipment
in the museum, constructed in 1872; and the Dayton, a shiny locomotive built
in 1873 at the Central Pacific Railroad yards in Sacramento.
Near the front of the museum, visitors will find the restored Wabuska Depot as
well as a typical railroad worker’s cottage, and a reproduction of a square,
bat-and-board style water tower, a type that was used in the 19th century.
On summer weekends, rides are offered on tracks that encircle the museum buildings.
Additionally, on selected dates, such as July 4th and Labor Day, the museum steams
up some of the vintage locomotives for brief rides.
Visitors shouldn’t overlook the museum gift shop, which has a large selection
of railroad books, videos, posters, shirts, and other rail-themed gift items.
Admission to the railroad museum is $4 for adults and free for children under
18. The Nevada State Railroad Museum is located at 1280 South Carson Street in
Carson City. It is open daily 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. For more information, call
775-687-6953.
The Children’s Museum of Northern Nevada—Learning and having
fun are what the Children’s Museum of Northern Nevada in Carson City is
all about. The museum, which opened in 1994, offers several dozen exhibits that
entertain and educate—without being boring.
Located in the historic former Carson City Civic Auditorium, built in 1939, the
children’s museum isn’t like most other museums. For one thing, nearly
everything in the children’s museum is designed to be interactive—meaning
that kids are supposed to touch and play with them.
For instance, the Shadow Box is an interesting exercise in photosensitivity.
Participants stand against a green wall while a bright light flashes every couple
of minutes. The light reacts with the wall, leaving shadows behind. Kids quickly
learn that if they twist their arms and legs into strange shapes, they can make
really weird shadows.
Over at Smith’s Grocery Store, children can play in a kid-scale version
of the popular local business that is filled with products (empty cans and boxes)
like they might find at your local supermarket. Children are supplied with funds
and encouraged to shop within a budget. There’s also a cash register to
tally purchases.
There is also a play area for smaller children, which offers a puppet theater
box and a selection of hand puppets. To keep kids coming back for more, the museum
is continually adding new exhibits and attractions.
The Children’s Museum of Northern Nevada is located at 813 North Carson
Street in Carson City. Admission is $5 for adults and $3 for children (free for
kids under 1). Hours are 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily. For more information
call 775-884-2226.
The Nevada State Library and Archives—Nevada’s State
Constitution is on display in the State Library and Archives building, which
is directly east of the State Capitol. There, visitors can find an informative,
multimedia display featuring the original, handwritten pages of the document,
which was drafted during the constitution convention of 1864. Adjacent to the
Constitution exhibit is a changing gallery that often features the work of Nevada
artists and photographers. The State Library and Archives is open weekdays from
8 a.m. to 5 p.m.